Overall, this pilgrimage was exactly what I needed. It was almost perfect. I have just a few final thoughts:
I found that, although awe-inspiring, Baroque Churches are just too much. They are beautiful, but I found it really difficult to concentrate on the Mass; there were too many things to look at.
Basilica of the Nativity of Our Lady, Regensburg, Germany "Old Chapel" or "Alte Kapelle"
Dachau = Christ Victorious. I love how there are chapels there; in Buchenwald, there is nothing except the gate and the "medical building".
Carmelite Convent (Where we had Mass)
Russian Orthodox Church
Protestant Chapel
Mortal Agony of Christ Chapel (Catholic)
Jewish Memorial
The ship (Amadeus Riva): I was pleasantly surprised at the size of the rooms. The bathroom was a good size with a GREAT shower. If I go on another river cruise, I need to remember to ask for a room closer to the front of the ship because of the engine noise. We were so pampered on the ship. The daily programs were fantastic. They would be on our beds when we returned from supper, as well as turn down our beds and spread out the bathmats.
Spacious Rooms (in a ship)
It was really cool that I happened upon a couple of Stolpersteine in Regensburg. The sad thing was that our whole group walked right by it, but I stopped when I saw it. One of the guides said Poland talked about doing something like that,t but there were so many Poles taken away that it would be next to impossible to do something. Austra has upright plaques with a doorbell beside the names.
Stolpersteine in Regensburg
The church in Weltenburg Abbey was very interesting: no crucifix on the altar, but to the side of it. Instead, St. George is on it. The ceiling appears to be domed but is actually flat, and the painter of the frescoes is looking down. The church is built as if it were a theater with 3 levels: Hell, Earth, and Heaven. Good beer!
Altar of St. George
The monks make great beer!
Linz, Austria. Had Mass in our first Gothic Church with incredible stained glass. In the church is a relic of Granz Jagerstatler and St. Catherine's (of Siena) Gate. The altar was in the middle of the church. Linz was separated during the Cold War: the Russians had 1 side, and the Americans had the other. The river separated the town. We were on the "American side".
St. Mary's Cathedral, Linz, Austria
St. Florian's Abbey was stunning. Being able to see (and hear) Anton Bruckner's organ, and also his tomb (which is directly under the organ), with all of those bones behind is something to see.
Bones in Bruckner's Crypt
Bruckner's Organ
Melk Abbey was a little disappointing in that no pictures were allowed inside. Having said that, it was beautiful. Was it as beautiful as St. Florian Abbey? Hmmm... I didn't have time to walk around the gardens.
Our first view of Melk Abbey from the ship in the morning fog
After Melk, we sailed down the river during the day, and we could see vineyards. So charming!
Wachau Valley, Austria
Dürnstein: Medieval village oozing with personality. We saw a water line sign as we walked into town. A wedding was just about to start, so we went into the church for a quick look. The wedding party/attendees were dressed in traditional Austrian clothes. The town is famous for apricots, but they weren't in season when we were there.
Danube watermark on the side of a building
The most significant "pinch me, I can't believe I'm here" moment was in Vienna, in Schonbrunn, the Habsburg Summer Palace. I still can't believe that I, a girl from small town East Tennessee, was listening to music written by Austrian composers in Maria Theresa's ballroom. It was such a magical evening.
The ballroom where the private performance was held
We celebrated Mass in some incredible churches: Baroque, Gothic, Wooden, in Dachau, in a Church Hall, and on the ship. One thing that stood out in all the churches was that there were no pads on the kneelers. At Dachau, I forced myself to continue to kneel, offering the pain up to the prisoners who would have loved to have had a place to kneel. It's hard to say which church was my favorite; definitely 1 of the Gothic Churches.
St. Martin's Cathedral, Bratislava, Slovakia
If I have any complaints, it would be that there wasn't enough time for reflection. I felt like we were rushed out of the churches after Mass because we had something else on the schedule, which was tight. I was also disappointed that the shops at the Divine Mercy Basilica were closed (All Saints Day); I was planning on buying Rosaries there, but Wadowice was a great 2nd choice since that's JPII's birthplace.
One other thing that I would have changed if I could: I would have preferred tours of the churches. As I look back and dig into some of the churches we were in, we missed a lot. As in, miracles that we weren't made aware of. There was a Eucharistic Miracle in Regensburg that we weren't made aware of. I'm not sure why that wasn't pointed out (and that church wasn't visited) since we were on pilgrimage.
The Minor Basilica of the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary holds several relics I wish I had known about when I was there
One thing did put a little bit of a damper on things at the end of the cruise: there was a couple who complained about our guide. I thought she was absolutely wonderful. She was very personable, professional, and when we needed reprimanding, she did so gently. One evening, I had dinner with another couple; all she seemed to do was complain about how things were different. You're on a pilgrimage, for goodness' sake. And, it's Europe...not the USA. Things are different there.
I met some wonderful, amazing people on this trip. The couples were just beautiful. I felt no sadness when seeing them together; they were so nice and just beautiful together. The guides we had (even though I know they had to have been stressed out at some point) were calm, professional, and knowledgeable. I could tell that they loved their country (Poland) and that they also loved sharing it with others.
The whole group in front of Melk Abbey. Photo courtesy of Crossroads Italy.
Select International is the way to go. I can definitely see myself on more pilgrimages offered through this company.
My last day in Krakow wasn't actually in Krakow. We traveled to Wadowice, which is the birthplace of Pope John Paul II. We had a hurried visit to the museum because we had a set time for Mass. I tried to take my time, which made me a couple of minutes late for Mass. Two things in the museum stood out to me: 1) looking through binoculars fixed to a wall and watching videos of JPII hiking in the mountains. In one of the videos, it was obvious he had difficulty walking. But the look of joy on his face was undeniable. 2) the canoes that he used during canoeing/camping trips with college students. He would turn the canoe upside-down and use it as an altar to celebrate Mass.
When JPII visited Krakow in 1979, the citizens were not informed of where he was going to be. Our guide's parents found out and took her (she was 18 months old at the time) to the street where he was going to be. She received a Papal Blessing that day.
I had no idea how instrumental JPII was in the downfall of the Iron Curtain. Following his visit, the Polish people rallied and Solidarity was born.
Replica of the Cross that was used during the 1st Mass on Polish soil during the papal visit
Mass in the church where JPII received the Sacraments of Initiation as well as the Sacrament of Reconciliation at the Minor Basilica of the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Knowing this, it's easy to understand his devotion to the Blessed Mother.
Minor Basilica of the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary
I caught this nun talking on her cell phone at the entrance!
The Main Altar
The ceiling
Chapel of St. John Paul II
Divine Mercy
Chapel of the Holy Family. This is the baptismal font used during JPII's baptism.
Hallway to the Our Lady of Perpetual Help Chapel.
Ceiling in the hallway to Our Lady of Perpetual Help Chapel
Miraculous image of Our Lady of Perpetual Help
Chapel of the Crucified Christ. There are relics of Sts. Maximillian Kolbe, Simon of Lipnica, and Padre Pio in this area.
Relic of St. Rita
I wasn't aware of all of the relics when I was in the church. I'm not sure why we weren't informed of them before we went again. Once again, it would have been nice to have had a tour of the church.
During Mass, this song was sung. I thought it was very fitting, since JPII loved the outdoors and the mountains.
We had just a bit of free time after Mass, so of course we hit up a cafe so we could indulge in "Papal Cake" and coffee. JPII is said to have snuck off to get some kremówka as a youth. It was delicious; I can understand why he enjoyed it.
The night before, I had a dream about my husband. He came to me, and I held his hand in both of mine. I told him I wanted to remember what it feels like because I knew he had to go back. I have no doubt God sent him to me to comfort me and show mercy to me. While we were in line to enter the salt mine in Wieliczka, a lady asked me if I had dreams about Robert. I told her about the dream, but it wasn't until later that I thought about the God-wink of her asking me that, the day after I had one. I don't have them very often, and I was very surprised I had one while I was in Poland.
Okay, on to the salt mines! This site is a UNESCO Heritage Site that dates back to the 11th century. We walked down to the 1st level, after going down 380 steps. The salt sculptures were just incredible.
Everything was made from salt (except for the wooden door)
Scene depicting Princess Kinga of Poland and how she became the Patron of Salt Miners
Looking down to the next level
Whimsical Dwarves
Scene showing salt mine workers
Even though these sculptures were incredible, when we made it to Level III (after going down approximately 800 steps), the scene took our breath away:
St. Kinga Chapel: Even the chandeliers are made of salt
Reliefs in Salt line the walls of the Chapel
The reliefs are depictions of the life of Christ
3-D Relief: just amazing
Altar of St. Kinga Chapel: Mass is held here every Sunday
Crucifix in salt at the side of the altar
Looking up in St. Kinga Chapel
We walked down around 800 steps to get to the chapel. Luckily, we didn't have to climb back up those steps. Instead, we were crammed into a sketchy basket that carried us back up. I made sure one of the priests was in the basket with me...just in case.
The altar blew me away. I had no idea that was down there, and the fact that they celebrate Mass there every Sunday morning is astonishing.
It was a little sad to go to the airport the next morning. Poland is such a faith-filled country. And now that I know about all of the relics in the Minor Basilica at Wadowice, I can't wait to go back.
When I first learned of this pilgrimage, I was asked if I was interested in the Krakow Extension. I didn't even hesitate. My response: "I can't be that close to JPII and not go!" While the other experiences I had were incredible, they don't hold a candle to the last 3 days. Well, really 2 since I missed 1 day because I caught whatever was going around the bus and chose to stay in bed that day. Even though I missed Czestochowa, it gave me a good reason to say "I'll be back".
As soon as we entered Poland, we had mass at a wooden church in Orawka. Built in 1659, St. John the Baptist is the oldest church in Upper Orava. It was dark, cold, smelled musty, and absolutely fantastic.
Some of the pictures depict life of the local people
View of the High Altar; the large pictures on the walls and ceilings are of St. John's life
Close-up of the High Altar
St. Anne
The disciples collecting St. John the Baptist's body following his beheading.
A view of the cemetery
I was extremely disappointed that I missed the next day: Czestochowa, but I think God had something else in store for me. The next day was all about JPII Centre and the Divine Mercy Basilica.
The JPII Centre
Doors to the JPII Center depicting his life
JPII Statue facing the Divine Mercy Basilica
The blood-stained cassock JPII was wearing when he was shot
Just a short distance from the JPII Center is the Divine Mercy Basilica. I love that these 2 are so very close together.
Since it was All Saints Day, the first thing we did was place a candle in the cemetery of our choice: either the nun's cemetery or the cemetery of soldiers from WWI.
I chose to place a candle at the grave of a WWI Veteran at the Convent of the Sisters of Our Lady of Mercy, Krakow
Cemetery of the Nuns
Statue of St. Faustina with the JPII Center in the background
Mass was in the Italian Chapel; we had time to venerate a relic quickly before walking around the downstairs of the Basilica, which holds 5 chapels with gifts from different countries.
The Chapel of St. Faustina, or the Italian Chapel
Relic of St. Faustina in the Italian Chapel
Chapel of St. Andrew the Apostle is a gift of the Greek Catholic Church of Poland and Ukraine.
The Chapel of Our Lady of the Seven Sorrows (The Slovak Chapel)
The Communio Sanctorum Chapel (The Hungarian Chapel) A relic of St. Stephen is in front of the altar.
Holy Cross Chapel (The German Chapel) The statue is of St. Teresa Benedicta of the Cross (Edith Stein)
The main church on the top floor of the Basilica
And then, the convent where St. Faustina lived and died. I felt such peace when I stepped onto the grounds of the convent.
Reproduction of St. Faustina's cell
St. Faustina's cell at the time of her death
The ceiling over the altar in the chapel
The altar in the chapel
St. Faustina's remains under the original Divine Mercy
The altar
The ceiling
We had time to venerate St. Faustina's remains, and I had enough time to sit in a pew and pray the Divine Mercy Chaplet in thanksgiving for answered prayers before my husband's death. I sat there and thought about all of the times I sat in the little chapel in my home parish in East TN and looked at a reproduction of the Divine Mercy Image while repeating, "Jesus, I trust in You". This was the highlight of my pilgrimage. I could have sat there for hours, if not all day.
While we were quickly viewing the reproduction of her cell, one of our guides had slips of paper on which were written lines from St. Faustina's Diary. We were encouraged to pick one on our way out. I said a quick prayer asking St. Faustina to help me choose the one that would speak to me. Well, she did. I left the room with tears in my eyes. It was as if she were right there with me. As I write this a year later, I can still feel it. One of the reasons it's taken me so long to write this is that it's so hard to describe. I still don't think I'm doing an adequate job of it, but maybe that's the point. It's something so personal that it's so very hard to describe.
The second part of that day (the JPII Center and Divine Mercy were just half of the day) was all about JPII. The walking tour was tailored to the pilgrimage...if I'm not mistaken, the guides who were with us from Select International led the tour since they were all from Krakow.
Wawel Cathedral on the grounds of Krakow Castle. Photography was not allowed inside. The chapel contains many side chapels. In the tombs is the chapel where JPII said his first Mass. It is also the site of many coronations for Polish Monarchs. This is also where JPII was ordained as auxiliary bishop for Krakow.
I found this fascinating: In the middle of the town square, there is an Adoration Chapel, St. Adalbert. If someone hadn't pointed it out to me, I wouldn't have known to go in. It was amazing. The square is crowded, it's loud, and then you walk into this chapel and it's peaceful and quiet.
And then you walk back into "the real world"! If I get back to Krakow, I'm definitely going to revisit the chapel. There is a basilica also in the Main Square: St. Mary's. It is also famous for the St. Mary's Trumpet Call that occurs at the top of every hour. Played since the 14th century, the trumpeter plays at the top of every hour, repeating the tune 4 times, directed toward the 4 cardinal points (North, South, East, West). The trumpeter is a firefighter who abruptly ends the tune in honor of the trumpeter who was shot with an arrow in the throat while alarming the city of approaching troops. The tradition continues for over 6 centuries, with breaks happening during the 19th century and WWII.
St. Francis Cathedral is across the street from the Archbishop's residence. This was JPII's home parish when he was the Archbishop of Krakow. He would often walk across the street and pray. His usual pew is now noted with a plaque.
The Archbishop's Residence
Points of interest during our walking tour that we weren't able to enter due to time constraints:
St. Andrews: the oldest church in the city
Sts. Peter and Paul
JPII lived here from 1951-1067.
As we headed back to the hotel, we were very close to St. Florian's, which was JPII's first parish assignment. I drew up the courage to divert from the rest of the group and go in for a bit.
That will be a day I will never forget. I don't want to say it was worth missing Czestachowa, but I wasn't upset that I did. We were down to 1 last day of the pilgrimage, and I didn't want it to end!
